I Hear America Cooking
By Betty Fussell
ISBN 0-14-026332-2
(review by Cheri Sicard)

True American cooking is like a river, its face changing depending on the surrounding landscape, ever growing, tributaries branching off at every bend. But if you seek the source of that river, the map can be found in Betty Fussell’s "I Hear America Cooking."

 One of America’s best known food writers and food historians, Ms. Fussell is legendary for her research and attention to detail. In this book she tackles the broad subject of American cooking, as it pertains to our immigrant ancestors. 

As much as travelogue as it is a history book and cookbook, the author breaks the United States into six principle culinary chapters: Indians and Conquistadors, The Mexamerican Desert; Cajuns and Creoles, The Delta South; Planters and Slaves, The Southeast Dixie; Seafarers and Settlers, The New England Coast; Trappers and Milkers, The Great Lakes of the Midwest; and Prospectors and Asiatics, The Ecotopian Northwest. 

Within each of these extensive sections can be found the heart and soul of its people. Food traditions that have been passed down through generations are discussed and authentic recipes are shared. I especially enjoyed the historic photos that illustrated each chapter, drawing the readers into that long ago time when the nation’s roots were taking hold. 

If you enjoy reading cookbooks the way some people enjoy reading novels, this book is a must have. Each and every recipe comes with a narrative history and rich heritage. 

Our kitchen lives in American have changed dramatically in a very short time. Perhaps more than anything, this book is valuable in that it keeps alive the culinary traditions that are so quickly being lost in today’s hurried world. To be sure, the average cook will never make many of the recipes: fare such as fried frogs, pressed doves and eels in green sauce being a thing of the past for most of us (thank God). But there are plenty of historically accurate traditional favorites to keep modern cooks happy as well: Alaskan Sourdough Bread, Barbecued Salmon, Johnnycakes, Country ham, Sausage and Seafood Gumbo, Chiles Rellenos and much more.

I Hear America Cooking
By Betty Fussell
Quality Paperback
516 Pages
Penguin Books
ISBN 0-14-026332-2
$16.95 ($22.00 Canada)
Review by Cheri Sicard

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